Wine in Restaurants

Hands up if every time you are handed the wine list in a restaurant you feel resentment swell up at the price the restaurant expects you to pay for a bottle?  You’re not alone.  In fact, I think it is one of the most insidious factors working against the rising trend of eating out.  Restaurants say that they need to make money from either the food or the wine: people are price sensitive when it comes to food, so they load up their margin on wine.  The trouble with this approach is that people are drinking poor wine and less of it.  Poor wine, beer, soft drinks and sobriety don’t flatter the restaurant experience, resulting in less return visits.  It isn’t an easy cycle to break, but the current practice needs fixing.  

Here are a few practical tips for finding the best wine on a restaurant wine list:

• Ask the waiter/sommelier for help: they should know their list.  Don’t be afraid to ignore the advice if you don’t think they know what they’re talking about.  Don’t tip them on the wine portion of the bill if they don’t make a good suggestion.
• Wine by the glass can be a good option for starters: everyone can have what goes best with their meal.  If any of the wines are oxidised, don’t be afraid to ask for a fresh bottle to be opened.
• When in doubt, Champagne is often an excellent choice for starters, especially if it is sold by the glass.  It is about enjoying the experience, so your guests will appreciate your gesture.     
• The ‘best value’ wines are usually found between £20 and £30/bottle.  With normal restaurant mark ups these wines would retail in a wine shop for between £8.75 and £14. Below the £20 to £30/bottle range you are usually drinking a ‘TV dinner’ wine – acceptable, but it isn’t going to complement the great food. 
• Above the £20 - £30 range you are paying a lot for the privilege.  If you have a special bottle at home, ring ahead and ask if you can bring it along.  Most restaurants will allow you to do so for a flat corkage fee that will work out a lot cheaper than the mark up, and will give your meal a great theme.

Rob Malcolm